Its the hunt, the process, the victory, the defeat, the challenge, the lesson, the flow, the stillness, the solitude, the camaraderie. It's like a breath of air, in and out...and most importantly, necessary.
Sometimes we don't need to know why.
Keep surfing.
I took a trip to the Oregon coast the last time I was out there with my good friend, Steve, from Portland. The process of surfing really hit me on this trip. I realized how the journey does indeed match up to the destination. We woke up early, packed the car and set off. I carried my camera along to document our "process".

5:30am


strap 'em down

the road from Porland to Tillamook. this is out my window.

boards and a rip curl F-bomb. a 5/4 mass of rubber

steve






the walk to the beach was like hiking through the ewok forest. slightly different landscape than Florida's east coast








the rays of light were pretty fantastic



our first look at it...



I've never seen anything like this on a surf trip. unreal.




this part takes at least 15 minutes




i look weird

me and my sword




It was about 8:45am when we finally got in the water. Over 3 hrs from when we left. But, really the surfing started the moment we planned the trip. Find your surfing and enjoy the moments that make up the process.
8 comments:
Dude, we got so pitted.
Looks like fun guys.. wish I was there!
they are fun guys!
I've always wanted to surf but have yet to have that opportunity. thanks for documenting your surfing adventure...it looked like a great experience for more than one reason.
these pics are gorgeous and this trip looks like it was fun. any action shots??
Watch for sharks...
Manu
Nice set. Wish I could have joined you guys!
Looks like you got a good look at the Oregon coast and forest. It's so magically serene and beautiful. Miss you and the compound fam.
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